H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Collection: Two New Fumé Interpretations

H. Moser & Cie. adds two limited editions to its Heritage collection: the White Fumé Chronograph and Espresso Fumé Centre Seconds. Available in the Middle East.

First Impressions

• Reference 8220-1200 limits the Heritage Chronograph White Fumé to 100 pieces in a 42 mm steel case — the rarest of the two new Heritage additions announced on 2 November 2026.
• Both watches share the rounded pocket-watch silhouette, tapered lugs and notched crown that define the Heritage line’s visual code.
• The Chronograph carries the HMC 220 automatic with a Dubois Dépraz module; the Centre Seconds runs on the slimmer HMC 200, both rated at a minimum three-day power reserve.
• Edition sizes differ: 100 pieces for the Chronograph, 200 for the Centre Seconds (ref. 8200-1207).

Design & Character

Two dials, two distinct moods.

The White fumé dial of the Chronograph carries the 1947 iteration of the Moser logo, with all chronograph markings, subdial graduations and tachymeter scale rendered in blue. Against the sunburst fumé ground, that blue creates genuine legibility rather than mere ornamentation. The grey kudu leather strap, hand-stitched in grey thread, keeps the palette measured.

On the Centre Seconds, an espresso fumé dial takes the opposite approach to warmth. Globolight numerals — a ceramic-based material incorporating Super-LumiNova — sit proud of the dial, while sword-shaped hands and a white railway minute track hold the composition together. A raw brown kudu strap stitched in white thread provides the contrast that the fumé surface withholds.

Movement & Materials

The HMC 220 inside the Chronograph pairs an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system with a Dubois Dépraz module, running at 21,600 vph across 51 jewels. Case height reaches 13.8 mm — the cost of housing a full chronograph at 42 mm. Both calibres use H. Moser & Cie.’s Original Straumann hairspring, manufactured by the brand’s sister company Precision Engineering AG in Neuhausen am Rheinfall.

The HMC 200 in the Centre Seconds measures just 5.5 mm in height, allowing the case to sit at 11.1 mm — noticeably flatter on the wrist. Both movements carry the Moser double-stripe finishing and an engraved oscillating weight, details that remain visible through the sapphire caseback.

Heritage & Lineage

Founded in 1828, H. Moser & Cie. draws the Heritage collection from specific periods in its own archive rather than from generic vintage sentiment. The Chronograph references mid-20th century Moser instruments built for explorers and pioneers — the tachymeter scale is functional evidence of that original purpose. The Centre Seconds looks further back, to the pocket watches fitted with slim lugs at the turn of the century.

H. Moser & Cie. describes its own approach as “H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.” For collectors who follow the brand’s position within Haute Horlogerie, both releases confirm that the Heritage line holds equal weight alongside the Endeavour and Pioneer families.

Against Its Siblings

Next to its siblings in the Heritage family, the Chronograph adds a complication the line had not previously carried in this fumé configuration, while the Centre Seconds offers the cleaner, flatter profile. The 100-piece ceiling on the Chronograph places it decisively above the Centre Seconds in scarcity terms. Both remain steel propositions — no precious metal options are announced — keeping the focus on dial execution and movement credibility rather than material hierarchy.

For more on horology that matters to collectors in Europe and the Middle East, sign up for our weekly editorial briefing.