DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee: 250-Piece Limited Edition

A Focused Look

• The DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition is a 39mm, 316L stainless steel dive watch produced in partnership with Hodinkee, translating the elusive 1969 Swiss Army military reference into DOXA‘s modern SUB 200T case for the first time, limited to 250 pieces at $2,000 USD.
• Ref. 804.10.031.29-SE17, available exclusively through Watches of Switzerland.
• Faded “Hodinkee Grey” anodized aluminium countdown bezel, textured tan dial, signature DOXA orange hands, and Old Radium Super-LumiNova on etched numerals.
• Swiss mechanical self-winding calibre at 28,800 vph, 38-hour power reserve, 200m water resistance.
• Ships with both a tan rubber strap and a grey NATO; stainless steel folding clasp with ratcheting wetsuit extension.

Design & Mechanics

The Army aesthetic has never before appeared in DOXA’s 39mm SUB 200T format.

The original Army was developed in 1969 in direct collaboration with the Swiss Army as a mil-spec dive watch. Its tan dial, checkerboard surround, and oil-dipped black case set it apart from the orange-dialed SUB 300T issued to combat divers. Surviving examples are scarce; they have become a fixed point of obsession among vintage collectors precisely because of their scarcity and functional austerity.

Scaling that design into the SUB 200T case reduces the overall footprint by roughly 10% against the vintage dimensions. At 39mm diameter, 41.50mm lug-to-lug, and 10.70mm thick, the case sits close to the wrist and clears a shirt cuff without difficulty. The raw 316L stainless steel finish is a considered choice: it visually echoes the surviving vintage pieces, whose experimental black chemical coatings wore down to bare steel through years of field use.

The Execution

Hodinkee’s editorial direction softened the original military palette without diluting its character.

Where the 1969 Army relied on stark black accents, the Hodinkee collaboration introduces a “Hodinkee Grey” across the anodized aluminium countdown bezel, the checkerboard track, and the date wheel. The minute markers on the bezel were deliberately spared during the anodising process, allowing the raw, circularly brushed aluminium to show through beneath. The result is a genuine vintage surface quality rather than a simulated one.

On the dial, a richly textured sand colour carries the lume plot and indexes. Etched numerals and the orientation triangle are filled with Old Radium Super-LumiNova, providing warm, period-correct legibility after dark. DOXA’s oversized orange hands remain: they are the fastest legibility cue on the dial and the clearest link back to the broader SUB family.

The countdown bezel uses a standard 60-minute track in keeping with the original military specification, replacing DOXA’s usual “no-deco” scale. Underneath, a mechanical self-winding calibre operates at 28,800 vph with a 38-hour power reserve and 26 jewels, decorated by DOXA. The case omits a Helium Escape Valve, keeping the profile lean while the 200-metre water resistance rating remains fully intact.

Availability & Edition Details

Production is fixed at 250 pieces, with no indication of further runs.

Jan Edöchs, CEO of DOXA, stated: “I’ve always believed the best watches carry a story you can feel on your wrist. The Army was born from a military brief, made in small numbers, and became one of the most sought-after and elusive references in our history, which is exactly what makes it so compelling.”

The DOXA SUB Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition (ref. 804.10.031.29-SE17) is priced at $2,000 USD and sold exclusively through Watches of Switzerland. Each piece ships with a tan rubber strap and an additional grey NATO strap, secured by a stainless steel folding clasp with ratcheting wetsuit extension. For collectors in the GCC, Watches of Switzerland operates across key Gulf retail locations; confirming regional stock early is advisable given the 250-piece ceiling.

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