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The Pucci Papaleo Rolex Collection Heads to Auction at Phillips Geneva

Phillips offers 16 rare Rolex chronographs from the Pucci Papaleo Collection at The Geneva Watch Auction XXIV, with previews in Dubai and Riyadh.

A Focused Look

  • Sixteen lots spanning the 1930s to the 1970s, including two examples estimated in excess of CHF 1,000,000 each, among them a square-cased Ref. 3830 described as most probably unique and a 14k gold Ref. 6264 “Paul Newman Lemon” believed to be the only known example in the 2.3 million serial range.
  • The collection belongs to Pucci Papaleo, Rome-based collector, author of Ultimate Rolex Daytona (2012), and a long-standing collaborator of Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo at Phillips.
  • Previews travel to Dubai (1–3 October) and Riyadh (20–21 October) before the sale at Hotel President, Geneva on 7 and 8 November 2026.
  • Part I draws from approximately 70 watches assembled over more than three decades, with condition described as the defining thread throughout.

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo announced on 22 September 2026 that Part I of the Pucci Papaleo Collection of Rolex Chronographs will be offered at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV on 7 and 8 November. Sixteen watches selected from a collection of roughly 70 will appear at the Hotel President in Geneva, following a global preview tour that includes stops in Dubai and Riyadh for collectors across the region.

Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo, Senior Consultants at Phillips, note that Papaleo’s contribution “goes far beyond collecting. Through his books, his photography, and his willingness to share what he has learned, he has helped give generations of collectors the tools to understand these watches.”

Rolex Ref. 3525 Bariletto stainless steel circa 1940 with Prouds retailer signature from the Pucci Papaleo Collection
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, champagne dial with black subdials, gold case and tachymetre bezel, tan leather strap.

Design and Mechanics

Papaleo’s selection traces Rolex’s chronograph output from the Ref. 3525 “Bariletto” of circa 1940, the maison’s first chronograph housed in an Oyster case, through to the manual-winding Daytona references of the late 1960s and early 1970s. Each watch documents a distinct stage in that development, from experimental case geometries to the settled visual vocabulary of the Cosmograph Daytona after 1963.

Condition is the consistent priority. Sharp case edges, crisp hallmarks, and original dial surfaces characterise most of the 16 lots. Several retain retailer signatures from houses including Prouds of Sydney, Monetti of Naples, and Verga of Milan, along with period accessories such as original guarantee papers and presentation boxes.

Rolex Ref. 3335 18k pink gold circa 1941 with Monetti Naples signature Pucci Papaleo Collection
Rolex Oyster Chronograph, stainless steel, with cream dial, red telemetric scale and riveted bracelet.

Market Position

Two lots sit above the CHF 1,000,000 estimate threshold. The square Ref. 3830 in 18k yellow gold, last seen at auction in 2004, carries a champagne dial with Arabic numerals, a spiral tachymeter scale, and the Verga retailer signature. According to Phillips, no other Ref. 3830 has appeared at auction, making it, in the house’s assessment, most probably unique.

The second seven-figure lot is the Ref. 6264 “Paul Newman Lemon” in 14k yellow gold from circa 1970, described by Phillips as very likely the only known 14k example in the 2.3 million serial range. Both lots establish price expectations well above the CHF 250,000–500,000 band that frames several other highlights, including the Ref. 3525 “Bariletto” and the pink gold Ref. 3335.

Rolex Ref. 3830 18k yellow gold square case circa 1941 unique example Pucci Papaleo Collection
Rolex Ref. 3830, 18k yellow gold, circa 1941. Estimate in excess of CHF 1,000,000. A 30mm square case with stepped construction and champagne dial — most probably unique at auction.

Why Collectors Care

For buyers across the Gulf who follow the secondary market in vintage Rolex, this sale carries particular weight. Papaleo’s three earlier collaborations with Phillips, including Daytona Lesson One (2013) and Daytona Ultimatum (2018), consistently attracted strong results because the watches came with documented provenance and exceptional preservation. The same standards apply here.

Regional access is also direct. The preview in Dubai runs from 1 to 3 October at M.A.D.Gallery inside The Dubai Mall, and the Riyadh stop follows from 20 to 21 October at Crown & Compass on Metro Boulevard. Both provide a rare opportunity to examine watches of this calibre without travelling to Geneva.

Rolex Ref. 6264 Paul Newman Lemon 14k yellow gold circa 1970 Pucci Papaleo Collection Phillips
Rolex chronograph in rose-toned gold, triple-register dial with tachymetre scale and suede strap.

Availability and Edition Details

The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV takes place on 7 and 8 November 2026 at the Hotel President, Quai Wilson 47, Geneva, with the final preview running from 4 to 7 November. Registration and bidding details are available directly through Phillips. All estimates exclude buyer’s premium.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Where can collectors in Dubai or Riyadh see the Pucci Papaleo Rolex watches before the Geneva auction?

A selection of watches from the Pucci Papaleo Collection will be shown in Dubai at M.A.D.Gallery, Fashion Avenue, The Dubai Mall from 1 to 3 October, and in Riyadh at Crown & Compass, Metro Boulevard from 20 to 21 October 2026.

What is the most valuable lot in the Pucci Papaleo Collection at Phillips?

Two lots carry estimates in excess of CHF 1,000,000: the most probably unique Ref. 3830 in 18k yellow gold with a square case, and the Ref. 6264 'Paul Newman Lemon' in 14k yellow gold, believed to be the only known 14k example in the 2.3 million serial range.

How many Rolex watches are offered in Part I of the Pucci Papaleo Collection?

Part I comprises 16 watches, selected from a broader collection of approximately 70 Rolex chronographs assembled by Pucci Papaleo over more than 30 years.

Who is Pucci Papaleo and what makes his Rolex collection significant?

Pucci Papaleo is a Rome-based collector, author and publisher who has spent more than three decades studying Rolex chronographs. He authored 'Ultimate Rolex Daytona' in 2012 and previously curated landmark thematic auctions with Phillips, including Daytona Lesson One in 2013 and Daytona Ultimatum in 2018.

When and where is The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV taking place?

The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV is scheduled for 7 and 8 November 2026 at the Hotel President, Quai Wilson 47, Geneva, with a final preview from 4 to 7 November.

Osama Haseeb
Osama Haseeb
Osama Haseeb is the Horology Editor at WATCHESPEDIA, covering luxury watches for collectors and connoisseurs throughout the Middle East, with close attention to technical detail - movements, materials and specifications - alongside the market context that matters to Gulf buyers. He believes in doing things the right way, favouring accuracy and craftsmanship over shortcuts. Away from the desk, he is a keen mountain trekker.

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