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Phillips Geneva Jewels VII: Kashmir Sapphires Lead November Sale

Phillips Geneva Jewels VII on 9 November 2026 features a 1.35ct Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, a 16.40ct Kashmir sapphire, and a Queen Mary pearl necklace. Estimates inside.

The Big Picture

  • Phillips’ seventh Geneva jewels sale, on 9 November 2026, pairs a 1.35-carat Fancy Vivid Blue brilliant-cut diamond with a 16.40-carat Kashmir no-heat sapphire ring, each carrying an identical estimate of USD 2,200,000 to 3,500,000.
  • A cultured pearl and diamond necklace commissioned by Queen Mary from Hennell in 1928 anchors the Collections & Provenance section, returning to market for the first time since 1986.
  • Signed pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Boucheron and Lalique extend the range of the sale.
  • Viewing runs at the Hôtel President Wilson, Geneva, from 4 to 9 November, preceded by stops in New York, Singapore, Paris, London and Taipei.
Cultured pearl and diamond necklace formerly owned by Queen Mary, commissioned from Hennell in 1928
The Hennell pearl and diamond necklace, circa 1928, formerly in the collection of Queen Mary. Estimate: USD 150,000–220,000.

Coloured Diamonds and the Blue Stone Leading the Room

At 1.35 carats, the Fancy Vivid Blue brilliant-cut diamond heading this auction occupies a category where supply is effectively finite. Phillips notes the stone’s exceptional colour saturation, the precise attribute that separates a Vivid-graded blue from the broader Intense tier. Sharing the top estimate bracket is a selection of coloured diamonds offered as a single lot, spanning Fancy Purplish Red, Fancy Intense Green-Blue, Fancy Deep Purplish Pink and Fancy Vivid Yellow stones, with a combined estimate of USD 450,000 to 800,000. For collectors in the Gulf seeking concentrated colour exposure across a single acquisition, that grouping is worth attention.

16.40-carat Kashmir no-heat sapphire and diamond ring, Phillips Geneva Jewels VII November 2026
Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring, 16.40 carats, no heat. Estimate: USD 2,200,000–3,500,000.

Kashmir and the Gemstone Hierarchy

Three Kashmir sapphires appear across this edition, underscoring the category’s weight in Geneva’s autumn calendar. The 16.40-carat ring and the late-19th-century Rozet & Fischmeister brooch-pendant set with an 18.69-carat sugarloaf cabochon (estimate: USD 1,000,000–1,500,000) represent the upper reaches. A 5.62-carat Kashmir ring from a French noble family, estimated at USD 150,000–250,000, offers entry at a comparatively accessible level. Beyond sapphires, an unheated 4.74-carat Burma ruby and a 7.96-carat Colombian no-oil emerald brooch complete a gemstone section built on origin credentials and modification-free status.

Rozet and Fischmeister 18.69-carat sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir sapphire brooch-pendant, Phillips Geneva 2026
Rozet & Fischmeister, sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir sapphire, 18.69 carats, no heat. Estimate: USD 1,000,000–1,500,000.

Collections & Provenance: Three Generations of Royal History

The necklace carries a provenance line spanning Victoria, Mary and Elizabeth II. Queen Mary commissioned Hennell to reproduce the original Golden Jubilee Necklace presented to Queen Victoria in 1888; Elizabeth II later wore that original for her first State Opening of Parliament in 1952. The reproduction, composed of twenty-one cultured pearls graduating from approximately 5.85 mm to 13.50 mm and set throughout with circular-cut diamonds in an openwork floral and trefoil design, passed to Mary Somerset, Duchess of Beaufort, before entering private collections at its 1986 sale. Its estimate of USD 150,000–220,000 reflects the necklace’s historical weight rather than stone values alone. Elsewhere in the section, a gold and gem-set cross from dancer Rudolf Nureyev’s collection is estimated at USD 2,000–3,000.

Van Cleef and Arpels Liz sautoir with amethysts sapphires coral and diamonds, Phillips Geneva Jewels VII
Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Liz’ sautoir in amethyst, coloured sapphire, coral and diamonds. Estimate: USD 245,000–365,000.

Signed Jewels and What Maison Provenance Adds

The Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Liz’ sautoir (USD 245,000–365,000) and a pair of Harry Winston Colombian emerald and diamond earrings at 9.67 and 10.29 carats (USD 730,000–1,090,000) lead the maison section. A Boucheron ruby and diamond parure, a circa-1891 Boucheron natural pearl and diamond necklace, and a Lalique emerald and diamond bracelet round out a selection where archive attribution underpins pricing. For buyers in Abu Dhabi or Riyadh who value documented maison history alongside material quality, this portion of the sale offers that dual assurance.

Benoît Repellin, Phillips’ Worldwide Head of Jewellery, described the selection as reflecting “the breadth of the market today, from rare coloured diamonds and exceptional gemstones to jewels from the world’s most celebrated maisons and pieces with significant noble provenance.” Full details and bidding registration are available directly on Phillips.

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Frequently Asked Questions

When and where does the Phillips Geneva Jewels VII auction take place?

The auction takes place on 9 November 2026 at 3pm CET at the Hôtel President Wilson, Quai Wilson 47, Geneva. Viewing runs from 4 to 9 November 2026 at the same location.

What is the top lot at Phillips Geneva Jewels VII?

Two lots share the highest estimate: a 1.35-carat Fancy Vivid Blue brilliant-cut diamond and a 16.40-carat Kashmir no-heat sapphire and diamond ring, each estimated at USD 2,200,000 to 3,500,000.

What is the history behind the Queen Mary pearl necklace in the sale?

Queen Mary commissioned the cultured pearl and diamond necklace from London jeweller Hennell in 1928 as a reproduction of the Golden Jubilee Necklace presented to Queen Victoria in 1888. She subsequently gifted it to her niece, Mary Somerset, Duchess of Beaufort; it has remained in private hands since 1986.

Will collectors in the Middle East be able to view the Phillips Geneva highlights before the auction?

The international tour includes stops in New York, Singapore, Paris, London, and Taipei before the full exhibition opens in Geneva from 4 to 9 November 2026. Phillips has not announced a specific Middle East preview date for this edition.

Which signed maison jewels feature in Phillips Geneva Jewels VII?

The sale includes pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Boucheron, Lalique, JAR, Boivin, Bucherer, and Lacloche Frères, among others.

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Osama Haseeb
Osama Haseeb
Osama Haseeb is the Horology Editor at WATCHESPEDIA, covering luxury watches for collectors and connoisseurs throughout the Middle East, with close attention to technical detail - movements, materials and specifications - alongside the market context that matters to Gulf buyers. He believes in doing things the right way, favouring accuracy and craftsmanship over shortcuts. Away from the desk, he is a keen mountain trekker.

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