SP One Pavée: MB&F Sets 255 Diamonds Into Its Most Restrained Watch

MB&F SP One Pavée pairs 255 diamonds and 18K white gold with the brand's slimmest 38mm watch. Full specs and collector details for the Middle East.

The Facts First

• 255 diamonds totalling 1.608 carats set across the case (165), bevelled flange (55), crown (14) and buckle (21) of an 18K white gold 38mm watch.
• The SP One Pavée is the second expression of MB&F’s new “Special Projects” collection, following the original SP One released in 2025.
• The inclined dial changes from black DLC to dark blue PVD; all other architectural choices remain intact.
• Movement: in-house manual-winding SP One calibre, 72-hour power reserve, 189 components, 31 jewels, 2.5 Hz.

Design & Diamonds

The SP One Pavée keeps every structural decision that made the original SP One legible: a bezel-free 38mm pebble case, sapphire crystals front and back, and lugs that rise from the lower case rather than attach to the upper section. MB&F chose not to alter this architecture for the diamond version. Instead, the setting follows the case’s own curves, so the 255 stones reinforce the amphitheatre geometry rather than compete with it.

The shift from black DLC to dark blue PVD on the inclined dial is the one visible departure from previous versions. Against the white gold and diamonds, the blue reads with more contrast than black would. For collectors in the Gulf weighing this against the platinum and rose gold editions, the Pavée is the only configuration in white gold, and the only one with a diamond-set flange.

Movement & Materials

Three elements define the SP One’s visual logic: the barrel, the balance wheel at 2 o’clock, and the inclined time dial at 6 o’clock, each with an identical circumference and each appearing to float within the case. Bridges with a rhodium finish (changed from ruthenium on the standard versions) are kept minimal to preserve the levitation effect. The conical gearing that tilts the dial is, as MB&F acknowledges, rarely seen in watchmaking and mechanically demanding to execute reliably.

All wheels are hand-angled. Hand-made engravings, prominent chatons and a careful balance of satin, polished and micro-blasted surfaces constitute the finishing brief. Water resistance is rated at 30m / 3 ATM.

Heritage & Lineage

MB&F was founded in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser, who conceived the brand as a concept laboratory for three-dimensional kinetic watches. The SP One, first sketched in 2018 and released publicly in 2025 to mark the brand’s 20th anniversary, was designed with watch designer Eric Giroud and occupies ground between the Horological Machines and the Legacy Machines. The Pavée is the SP One’s first precious-metal, diamond-set expression and the second release within the Special Projects line.

The Watch in Context

Against the platinum and rose gold SP One editions, the Pavée adds precious stones without adding case diameter. At 38mm × 12mm with a 41.9mm lug-to-lug, it sits closer to a dress watch in proportion than anything else MB&F has produced. For buyers following MB&F at Watches and Wonders and similar showcase events, the Pavée answers a specific question: whether the brand’s geometric logic survives a diamond setting. Across all 255 stones, the amphitheatre silhouette holds.

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