Bell & Ross BR-05 GMT Green Steel: The Sage Dial Edition for 2026

What Caught Our Eye

• The Bell & Ross BR-05 GMT Green Steel (reference BR05G-GN-ST) is a 41 mm automatic GMT watch in satin-finished and polished steel, featuring a three-layer sage green sunray dial with an independent arrow-shaped GMT hand and a two-tone 24-hour graduated flange, introduced as the centrepiece of Bell & Ross’s 2026 green-dial focus.
• The dial colour is sage green with silver-toned reflections, achieved through a proprietary three-step process: sunray brushing, tinted green varnish, then a transparent glossy topcoat.
• The BR-CAL.325-1 automatic movement delivers 54 hours of power reserve and allows the GMT hand to be set independently of the local hour hand.
• Two strap options are available: green rubber or satin-finished and polished steel bracelet.

Design & Aesthetics

The BR-05 GMT Green Steel carries the collection’s structural logic intact: a round dial contained within a squared case, derived directly from the cockpit instrument panels that have shaped Bell & Ross’s visual identity since 2005. The integrated bracelet locks flush against the case at every lug, producing a silhouette that reads as a single continuous form rather than a case-and-strap assembly. On the BR-05 Grey Mirror Steel, that architecture carried a high-polish statement; here, it grounds a colour-led proposition.

The sage green is a deliberate choice over a saturated primary green. Bell & Ross describes it as carrying silver-toned reflections that shift with the light, and the three-step manufacturing process behind it — sunray brushing of a metal plate, a tinted green varnish, then a transparent glossy sealing layer — is what gives the surface its apparent depth. “Baignoire-style” polished rhodium-plated appliqué indices and skeletonised hands, each filled with white Super-LumiNova X1 for a green glow at night, complete a dial that reads precisely at a glance without relying on colour contrast alone.

The two-tone peripheral flange, graduated over 24 hours in green and silver grey, marks the boundary between daytime and nocturnal hours in the second time zone. It is functional typography as much as decoration.

Movement & Technical Detail

The Calibre BR-CAL.325-1 is an automatic mechanical movement with a 54-hour power reserve, visible through a sapphire caseback set against a 360-degree oscillating weight. The GMT complication allows the arrow-shaped second time-zone hand to be adjusted independently from the hour hand — a practical arrangement for GCC travellers rotating between multiple time zones within a single day.

The 41 mm case is 11 mm thick, finished in a combination of satin-brushed and polished steel surfaces. A screw-down crown with a dedicated crown guard maintains 100-metre water resistance, and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating sits over the dial. These are working specifications, not decorative gestures: the case geometry and crown protection are consistent with Bell & Ross’s original professional brief, adapted here for city wear.

Heritage & Brand Context

Bell & Ross was established in 1994 by Carlos-A. Rosillo and Bruno Belamich, building its reputation on professional aviation instruments before shifting into the luxury watch market. The BR-01 of 2005, with its square case housing a circular dial, set the template that the BR-03 and, later, the BR-05 have developed in different directions. The BR-05, introduced in 2019, took the cockpit geometry and removed the aeronautical references entirely, replacing them with an integrated bracelet and refined surface finishing suited to an urban context. For collectors following the brand’s work through the Watches and Wonders calendar, the 2026 green-dial programme marks a clear editorial direction: Bell & Ross is using colour as a primary differentiator across multiple references simultaneously, with the BR-05 GMT Green Steel and the BR-03 Green Steel both active in the same cycle.

The BR-05 GMT Within the Collection

The 41 mm GMT occupies a considered position between the 40 mm BR-05 Auto and the 42 mm Chronograph. By contrast with the BR-X3 Black Titanium, which pursues technical complexity in avant-garde materials, the BR-05 GMT Green Steel stays within a more conventional steel-and-bracelet format while adding a second time zone as its sole functional advancement over the base automatic. That restraint is what makes it the commercial pivot of the 2026 green-dial range — accessible in size, recognisable in shape, and distinguished primarily by colour and dial architecture rather than mechanical escalation.

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