Tiffany & Co. Enamel: paillonné artistry on the wrist

Key Highlights

• New Enamel watch collection in three variations, inspired by Jean Schlumberger’s 1962 jewellery designs.
• 36 mm 18k white or yellow gold case with snow-set diamonds on the case and dial.
• Rotating Tiffany Blue® or white paillonné enamel ring with Schlumberger’s Croisillon motif.
• Up to 1,236 diamonds for a total of 8.38 carats on the fully pavé high-jewellery model.
• Swiss Made high-precision quartz movement with integrated pusher for time setting.

The Tiffany & Co. Enamel watch pays tribute to Jean Schlumberger and the maison’s historic paillonné enamel savoir-faire. Offered in three interpretations, it translates the vivid Croisillon bracelets of 1962 into a contemporary high-jewellery timepiece with a strong Tiffany Blue® identity.

Housed in a 36 mm 18k white or yellow gold case, the watch sits between jewellery and horology. Its two-part dial brings together diamonds, gold and translucent enamel, creating a compact yet luminous presence on the wrist.

Paillonné enamel, revived for a new generation

Tiffany & Co.’s relationship with enamel dates to the 1870s and the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1878, when the maison presented its own enamelled creations. Over time, its artisans have explored cloisonné, flinqué and grisaille across objects and timepieces, many preserved in the Tiffany Archives.

In 1962, Jean Schlumberger renewed interest in paillonné enamel through vivid high-jewellery pieces such as the Croisillon bracelets. The technique, developed in the 19th century, involves cutting gold or silver leaf into tiny fragments, positioning them on the surface, then covering them with translucent coloured enamel and firing at high temperature, with the three-step cycle repeated until the desired depth is achieved.

Within this story, the Croisillon motif is key. Formed by alternating cross-stitches and pairs of straight stitches in 18k yellow gold, it hints at Schlumberger’s Alsatian textile roots and has come to suggest lasting ties, now expressed in a watch context.

A dial in motion

The Enamel watch dial consists of a fixed, diamond snow-set central disc and an outer rotating ring that miniaturises the Croisillon bracelet. Twelve gold cross-stitches mark the hours and move with each gesture, animating the dial in a way that recalls Schlumberger’s playful compositions.

Creating the paillonné ring is a 65-hour process: 55 hours for enamelling and 10 hours for crafting and assembling the gold cross-stitches. For each Tiffany Blue® ring, the sequence of applying gold or silver leaf, depositing enamel and firing can be repeated up to three times to obtain the right colour and luminosity, with yellow gold hands echoing the warm Croisillon accents beside the diamonds.

High-jewellery execution and Swiss precision

Tiffany & Co. showcases its gem-setting through a snow-set dial and case. The central disc alone carries 204 round brilliant diamonds, while the 36 mm case adds 366 stones, for 613 diamonds and more than 4 carats, with the caseback engraved with a sun motif inspired by Schlumberger’s Floral Arrows brooch and accented with 14 diamonds.

The Enamel watch runs on a Swiss Made high-precision quartz movement, adjusted via an integrated pusher to maintain a clean silhouette. A Tiffany Blue® or white alligator strap with an 18k yellow or white gold “T” buckle set with 43 diamonds completes the main references, while a white gold bracelet version is fully pavé-set with 666 additional diamonds totalling 4.48 carats, bringing the most elaborate model to 1,236 diamonds and 8.38 carats.

Why it matters

By bringing Schlumberger’s Croisillon motif and paillonné enamel from bracelet to dial, the Tiffany & Co. Enamel watch reinforces the maison’s dual role as jeweller and watchmaker. It appeals to collectors drawn to métiers d’art, archive-inspired design and discreet high jewellery, distilled into a wearable 36 mm format.

For information on Tiffany & Co. watches and high-jewellery creations in the region, we recommend contacting your preferred Tiffany boutique or regional client adviser, and subscribing to local maison communications for tailored GCC updates.